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Exaema answered6 years agoyou might want to disconnect the ground cable from your battery then put your battery charger on it to bring it up to full charge then re-connect the ground cable. If your battery is reasonably good and you start / drive your vehicle reasonable distances every couple of days, it should hold. If you only use your vehicle every few days, do lots of short drives, stopping & starting, it could drain your battery. The alternator is a 'battery maintainer', not a heavy duty battery charger.Hope this is useful. Faye answered5 years agoNot offering a solution, just want to share what happened with my car. The driver's side window power motor stopped working so I had it replaced at the local Ford place.
When I got it back, if the windows are set on a certain setting (to go all the way down or up with only a slight short touch) it will drain the battery but if I use the setting where you have to hold the button down to get the window up or down, it does not drain the battery. Have no idea whats wrong but I do know for a fact that it is that certain setting on the power windows that drain the battery. I don't use that setting so I just keep it turned off. Bryan answered4 years agoIn my 01' F250 V8 5.4L Triton I was showing a pretty strong, pulsatingdraw off the battery.
Fuse was showing it was the multi function switch(turn signal/wipers) piece so I replaced that and then it was still showing.Unplugged the radio during trouble shooting. And the RADIO with thekey off, and the radio off, was causing the power drain. Not sure howcommon this is but may help.
It was also triggering a clicking soundcoming from where the headlights are turned on and off (the illuminationof that dial and the radio share a fuse). Seemore answered4 years agoI am having a similar problem right now as the battery is being drained while sitting up. In my case, I have had electronics training and I can tell you that most of these solution replies are worthless.
That seems to be the problem with searching for solutions anytime now. Answers like scrape the terminals, take it to the dealer, etc show that this is worthless information and only makes the problem solving more difficult.In my case it is caused by a malfunction in the AC circuits. I like most drivers will drive up to a parking place with my AC, Heat, etc on and blower motors running. When I turn off the ignition it kills everything and I don't bother to shut off the AC switch etc. After one of my battery failures and when I hooked up the charger my AC blowers came on. Ignition switch off. I found that I had to turn the AC Select switch off to charge the battery.
It worked somewhat. A repairman replacedone of the AC Relays and it came on once but then cleared up.
Now it has happened again. This time both the fan speed switch was in the on position and the AC select switch was also in the on position. I turned both off, chugged the battery and everything tests out working.
Until I find the problem I will have to make certain that I don't leave these switches on when leaving the vehicle. As you should know, all of the devices powered up by the ignition switch are not powered through the switch The switch only supplies voltage to energize a relay, You have relays that have 12 volts applied to them all of the time. If they have to remain on then they have a set of contacts called latching contacts. That relay will stay on until the power is released by the lathing contacts. I am reasonably sure that I have a set of sticking contacts in a latching relay.To make it a little clearer think of your starting current. It couldn't possibly carry that current.
Instead your battery cables stay connected to your starter all of them time. The positive cable goes through an open solenoid. This is nothing but a big relay.
The ignition applies 12 volts to the primary and this energies the solenoid contact which allows the full battery current to get to the starter.Now in reading all of this I find nothing to help me with my problem but I can see that most of the problems here are most likely caused by relays are sensors. Hopefully a mechanics code reader might find the problem. If you can get to your local library, most of them now carry Chilton's On Line and there you can find the circuit diagrams and may be able to trace the voltage paths to and through the trouble site.The code readers are wonderful when they work but sometimes you just have to go back to the past and do some old fashion trouble shooting with volt meters and trouble lights.I will continue to search for my problem in the hopes that I might find where someone has the same identical problem and they can advise what their solution was.
The Interstate MT7-65 is part of the Car batterytest program at Consumer Reports. In our lab tests, Car batterymodels like the MT7-65 are rated on multiple criteria, such as those listed below.Life: Life test measures how a battery endures repeated charge-and-discharge cycles at hot-climate engine-compartment temperatures. The more cycles endured while maintaining a higher voltage, the higher the score.Reserve capacity: Reserve capacity estimates how long batteries can run a car if the charging system fails.CCA: CCA performance reflects voltage at our load of half the average claimed CCA for each group size after cranking for 15 seconds at 0º F. We charged batteries at the 14.5 volts that vehicles typically supply, rather than the higher voltage that manufacturers use.
Batteries charged at the lower voltage met BCI voltage standards for a fully charged battery.